I didn't read this becuase it was a bit of a wall of text. :)
But as an avid sea kayaker, I can say I experience this all the time. And it's super wacky when you've got rebound waves coming off a rock wall, and 6 footers coming in from the North Atlantic.
Effectively , everything becomes unpredictable. You are sitting on the crest of a wave and go to put your paddle in and... there is just no water there. So you put force into a stroke and there is no resistance at all causing some tippiness and what not.
It's a lot of fun, but it's also WEIRD feeling.
> sea kayaking
I keep having a problem where when trying to break through the surf I'll be flipped over backward in any kind of moderate surf. Do you orient yourself sideways and use some special technique to not roll? How to you get out?
Sounds like an effective way to generate random numbers.